60’s Chevron Coat

Way down here in Kiwi-land, things are cold. We’ve got snow on the hills, wind blowing up from Antartica, and the inevitable winter rains. Which makes it the perfect time to sew up a warm, snuggly coat!

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I spotted this gorgeous chevron design coating fabric on the Minerva website a while back, and then spent a couple of months selecting and discarding patterns to use with it. Finally, I spotted this reproduction 1960’s coat pattern from Burda, Burda Style 7041 – perfect!

I really like the details of this pattern – it’s got princess seams from the armscye in front and back, and a classic tailored two-piece sleeve. The princess seams don’t quite go over the bust apex in the front, so there are small angled bust darts for added shaping. There are also two pockets in the front princess seams.

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

One thing I didn’t spend long debating on was which view to make up. A Peter Pan collar on a 1960’s coat? Say no more! And as for the fastenings – that set of two lots of four buttons is just too lovely.

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

This was my first time making up a Burda envelope packet. A very different experience to making up any of the Burda magazine patterns, that’s for sure! Overall, it was fine – not the most comprehensive instructions in the world, but it came together nicely. I did spend quite a while at the start hunting for the measurement chart though to figure out what size to cut – finally located it on the pattern tissue. Not my favourite place for those charts to be…!

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I was a good little sewist and stitched up the bodice as a muslin beforehand. (Mainly because I knew I’d have to make a couple of adjustments, so wanted to check I got them right. Hah!) Sure enough, a few changes were made. I ended up lengthening the sleeves by 7cm, which then became more like 8cm after attaching the lining (I have super long arms, and I think this pattern has wrist-grazing sleeves rather than full length). The shoulders were widened by 1cm. And I moved the bust dart down by 6cm (which in hindsight was about 2cm too far, despite my careful marking on the muslin. Not sure what happened there.).

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

For most of the construction, I actually followed the instructions. Except for when it came to the lining – it called for hand-stitching the hem and sleeve hems, then hand-stitching the lining to them. I’m not a huge fan of hand sewing. So I just bagged the lining out instead – far easier and faster! (And yes, it meant I lost the little ease fold at the hem of the lining, but since I pre-washed both fabric and lining, I felt this was an ok loss to make.) As a result of bagging the lining rather than hand-catching it to the fabric, the hem and sleeve ended up about 1cm longer than they would have otherwise.

Overall, a pretty good pattern! I enjoyed making it, and would happily make it again. :-)

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Now, let’s talk about some of the project details!

First up, the fabric. This is the most gorgeous, soft and snuggly coating I have ever worked with! It’s a wool/poly blend, and wonderfully thick and soft. When it arrived, I may have just stroked it for a while, haha! It washes up well too – I chucked it through my machine on a wool cycle, and it came out wonderfully. (Two small children = lots of sticky hands = I don’t want to have to dryclean everything, hence machine washing this beforehand!) Stitches sink into it, and it presses really well, too (and yes, this coat was given a good pressing, despite the front corner in a couple of photos! Not sure what happened there. Gah). It’s thick and cozy enough that I didn’t bother to sandwich a layer of flanellette between the coating and the lining, which I usually do when making coats or jackets. Yeah, I admit it – I’m in love with this fabric. Wearing this coat is like being wrapped up in a snuggly blanket. ;-)

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The lining is just your classic anti-static lining. The coat is fully lined, and there’s an ease pleat right down the centre back.

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The lining is used in the pockets too – lining on the top of the pocket bag, fashion fabric for the bottom layer. This way, bulk is reduced, and since the bottom layer of the pocket bag is the only one you really see, it still gives a nice continuous flow of fabric.

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

For the first time ever, I actually used shoulder pads, too. I normally don’t bother, since I have broad shoulders anyway and usually feel like they don’t really need any emphasis, but it felt like the right thing to do with this project. (Mainly because due to small children and lack of sleep, I’m slouching far more than usual these days – shoulder pads help with the illustion of being upright and therefore awake. ;-)

I added a coat hanger bar as well. To reinforce it and make sure it will bear the weight of the garment, I interfaced the back neck facing and also stitched two flat buttons directly behind the bar on the other side of the fabric – one button for each end of the hanger bar. They lie nice and flat, and now it’s all sewn together, you’d never know they were there. Good, hidden structural support!

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

While the coat calls for button holes, I couldn’t quite face the idea of making 8 small bound button holes, so instead cheated a bit and attached large snap fasteners. The buttons are simply sewn onto the right side of the garment. Sneaky, right?! ;-)

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And to finish it all up, I added a couple of labels. My own label on a scrap of Cotton & Steel mustangs print cotton (because, mustard yellow! Horse!), and an Oscar Wilde quote on ribbon near the hem, just for the fun of it.

60's Chevron Coat | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I’m considering this project a win – I’ve worn it every day since I made it. (Hence also why there are different outfits under it in the photos – one outfit from wearing it to work yesterday (thanks to my colleague Matt for taking pics!), and one from today when we went wandering along the waterfront. And here’s a couple of other shots from our waterfront roam today, just because. The view under part of the wharf, and the Chaffers Marina.

(If you want to see details of the other materials used in this coat, they’re all listed over here on the Minerva website.)



Cozy Diamond PJ pants

For a couple of years there, I was making myself a new pair of pajama pants each year, sewing along with the annual Pajama Party that Karen ran.

But then it didn’t happen last year. Or this year, either. :-(

And so, no pajama pants got made. (Because let’s face it, dresses will always trump PJ pants when it comes to my sewing queue.)

Then two things coincided – Indie Pattern Month, and a sudden need for at least one more pair of PJ pants (yeah, sometimes they just die on you. Very sad. :-(

Cue the Carolyn pajama pants, from Closet Case Patterns. Paired with a flanellette that had been “maturing” in my stash for, um, a few years…. (*avoids eye contact*)

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

This was my first time making a Closet Case Patterns pattern, and I must say, it was a rather pleasant experience. Everything came together nicely, instructions were clear, and Heather has thoughtfully separated this pattern into different files for the top, pajama pants, and shorts, so it’s super easy to just print off which one/s you want.

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The only thing that I found a little odd was when it came time to add the elastic to the waist. The instructions say to thread it through the casing then cut to fit. Personally, I just like to know the length to cut beforehand, based on my waist measurements – there’s a bit less mucking around that way, and you know you’ve cut it the right length so less risk of accidently ending up with it too loose or too tight.

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I’m not really big on pajama tops (singlet tops all the way!), so just made the trousers, in a size 12. And yeah, I’m happy with them! The fit is good – a bit slimmer than I’m used to, but still comfortable. The pockets sit nice and flat. The rise is pretty good, although a bit lower than I would personally like – they sit a couple of inchs below the waist on me. (With small people regularly grabbing my legs, waist height is at far less risk of being tugged down. Hah!) (Nothing wrong with the pattern there, by the way – just personal preference for fit so noting it to make sure I don’t forget for next time. ;-)

Here’s how the pockets sit, in case you’re curious:

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Due to being tall and all, I added 4cm to the length of the trousers, which worked well. I’d add another 1.5cm on top of that next time, as they’re still fractionally too short.

I also narrowed the waistband, as I was using narrower elastic.

Another change I’d make next time is to leave off the pockets – they’re great, but I don’t see myself ever using them, so it’s not quite worth the effort to sew ’em…. Although they are kinda cute, so maybe…?

I’ll be keeping the mock fly front though – there’s something about that detail I really like. :-)

I added some piping in grey down the sides of the legs. Yay for piping!

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And there isn’t really much more to say about these! They’re comfy, cozy, great for winter (brrrr winter!), and I’ve already bought some fabric to make another pair. (With foxes on! Yeah!!)

Cozy Diamond PJ pants | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Shards of Hope dress

Sometimes it seems like all the stars align and a project suddenly happens that ticks several boxes at once.

My good sewing buddy Mel and I were thinking – it’s about time we did another twinsies creation, where we both make the same pattern at the same time. Plus, it’s the second birthday for The Monthly Stitch in August, with the theme being “two is the magic number” – a perfect time for twinsies!

And then we got to thinking, how else can we incorporate that theme….?

Discussions were had around fabric, and we realised we both had fabric from the What A Gem range by Camelot in our stashes. Mel has the “gems” design, and I’ve got the “arrows” one. Two designs from the same range – seemed perfect!

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

So then we just had to come up with a pattern that worked for each, and for the amounts of fabric we had….

And that’s where this pattern comes in. It’s the Hawthorn dress by Colette Patterns. It was given to me as part of the pattern swap for Indie Pattern Month over on The Monthly Stitch. I was pretty darn excited to get it in the mail, as it’s a pattern I’ve been debating about buying for quite some time! (Great choice, swap partner! :-) There’s an Indie Pattern Month wrap-up day today over on The Monthly Stitch, and I really wanted to make up at least one of my two swap patterns in time for it! (The other one is currently on my cutting table. Soon it shall be made. Soon….!)

Colette Patterns Hawthorn dress

Plus, with the cute collar, there was the option of using two different fabrics on our dresses (again, using the “two is the magic number” theme). So yep, all boxes were ticked – twinsies in the pattern, twinsies in the fabric range, an indie pattern, and in my case also a pattern swap pattern. Win!

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

One other box, too – this is also my Minerva Crafts Bloggers Network make for the month. Yippie!

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Crazily enough, despite owning a couple of Colette patterns, this is the first one I’ve ever made (excluding their two free ones, neither of which worked well for me). I approached it with some trepediation – I’ve heard quite a bit about how hard this pattern is to fit, and Colette also drafts for a C cup while I’m an AA (yes, seriously).

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

With that in mind, I took the time to do a proper small bust adjustment (SBA) on the pattern, reducing it by a total of 2″ in the bust.

The only other change I made to the pattern was on the skirt. I originally got this fabric to make a 1950’s blouse out of, so only had 2 1/4 yards – officially no where near enough to make the Hawthorn! Add in the directionality of the print, and it was a bit of a cutting challenge. To make it fit, I cut the back skirt on the fold, and folded out 13cm at the hem of both front and back skirt pieces (making for a total of 52cm removed from the hem circumference in total!). And it fit! (Just!)

I had a lot of fun playing with the print direction for this one. I started with the bodice placement, deciding that vertical arrows would work best there, especially with the waist dart.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The skirt was origianally going to be on angles, with the arrows forming v’s at each centre and side seam. But there just wasn’t enough fabric for that, so it got cut out with horizontal arrows that dipped into v’s at the side seams.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The collar was a bit more fun, with arrows going around the neckline.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I didn’t have quite enough fabric for the facings, so the bodice facing is scraps from my Dolly Turtles dress. (Which I forgot to get a photo of, whoops!)

Speaking of the facings, they’re finished with hug snug seam binding – I may have given into temptation and gotten some in a lovely bottle green shade. Love this stuff so much!!

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Hug snug was also used for the hem, which was then stitched up with a machine blind hem.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The armholes are finished with green bias binding.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Also, can I get a yay for these buttons? Aren’t they fabulous?!? I’m so happy to have found them on the Minerva site! They’re such a lovely shade, and match the coral coloured triangles in the fabric so nicely. Plus, the lines on half of them reflect the lines of the arrows. Yippie!

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

(Again though, as I originally got the supplies for this for a blouse, I didn’t have enough buttons for the whole dress. I spaced them out a bit further than the pattern called for, and used four snap fasteners for the lower section of the skirt instead. I may yet go and just stitch that part of the skirt down – depends on how well the snap fasteners hold up to a day of getting up and down from an office chair….)

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I’m actually pretty happy with the fit of this. It’s a bit looser in the bodice than I normally like, and I’m still debating a bit whether to take it in or not as it’s only fractionally too loose…. Hmmm…. (What do you think? Take it in, or leave it as it is?)

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

One thing I found surprising – the front waist seam is a bit too low on me, about 1.5cm too low, even with the small bust adjustment raising it up a bit. Since I’m so tall, I’m used to waist seams being a bit too high, so this was quite a surprise! Probably something to watch out for if you make the pattern up, and an adjustment I’ll make in the future.

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I did mix up the construction order a bit, sewing the skirt pieces to the bodice pieces, and the side seams got stitched up last. This is pretty standard for me – it makes it a lot easier to make adjustments with changing post-baby body shape. :-)

If you’re curious, here it is with out a belt. (Although I’ll probably always be wearing it with a belt, just coz that’s how I roll.)

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Shards of Hope dress | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Oh, and why the name? Well, it’s actually named after a book I’m reading at the moment. Some of the lead characters are part of a group called the Arrows – rather appropriate when using this fabric, no? So yeah, the dress adopted the name from the book. (It’s one of those books I expect I’ll read several more times in my life, so that’s always a good thing. Maybe I should name more garments after books. I do like books. And sewing. Hmmm….)

Thanks to the lovely Nicola, who played photographer on a freezing cold winters day! We went exploring, and found a muddy stream bed with a fallen log for photos. Here’s some scenery, just for fun….






Snuggly squishy cuddly and warm

Oh my gosh, I knitted a jumper!

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And it’s got really long sleeves.

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

With cute scallop colourwork where the rib joins onto the main sleeve.

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Oh, and there’s scallop colourwork where the rib joins the body, too.

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Yay!!! :-)

This here jumper – it was actually the second “proper” (i.e. not a plain scarf or peggy square) project I started. I cast it on as soon as I finished my grey Miette cardi, waaaaaaay back at the end of 2013/start of 2014.

(Yeah, that’s right. A good year and a half ago.)

I was making good progress on it, and then I found out I was pregnant.

And you know what? Cropped, fitted jumpers don’t fit so well over a baby bump.

So it got put on hold, and I made a few cardigans instead. Far more practical for pregnancy and nursing, after all!

But then a couple of months ago, winter came along. It was cold (and I am not a fan of the cold). So I picked this jumper up again.

Having to go to Masterton and back on the train for work a couple of times gave me a couple of good, solid knitting sessions. So progress was made! (Finally!)

And now, it’s all done! Yay!

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And it’s super warm and soft and snuggly. With lovely long sleeves that keep my wrists warm. Win!

The pattern is “A Cropped Sweater for Winter” by Andi Satterlund. (It’s a free pattern, by the way. Go get it!) It’s a nice and simple pattern, knit in the round as hers tend to be. It’s got a semi-square neckline, and cute scallop colourwork details with contrast bands. Very easy to knit, and in 10 ply yarn so pretty quick too. (Even if that “pretty quick” knit took me a good year and a half!)

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

As is more-or-less inevitable (since I just can’t leave well enough along and have to mess with things every time), I made a couple of changes. Nothing major, though – just length alterations for the sleeves. The sweater is meant to have 3/4 length sleeves but, well, I live in Wellington. It gets cold here. Long sleeves are far more snuggly in winter.

(Plus, I’m tall. RTW things with long sleeves end up as 3/4 length sleeves on me. At times, I overcompensate for this when making things. Extra length! Yeah!!)

So I added 60 rows of knit to the end of the sleeve, before I started the cuff. And then I added an extra 10 rows of rib, too. (And with that extra 70 rows in total, they’re actually only just long enough. Hmmmm.)

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The yarn is Cleckheaton Country Aran 10ply, purchased from Spotlight (horror of horrors! But yes, I actually found some lovely, gorgeous, pure wool yarn amongst their cheap acrylics!!). The body of the jumper is in colourway 4013 (Dark grey) and the contrast is colourway 4009 (Teal).

(I learnt a lot about how to read labels on balls of yarn while buying this, from a lovely lady who was also browing the yarn selection. She knew lots about knitting, which was awesome as I knew pretty much nothing at that point in time, and she was very happy to share her knowledge! She taught me how to check dye lots as well, to make sure I didn’t run the risk of any colour variations. Thanks, wonderful stranger at Spotlight! Aren’t fellow crafty people awesome?!?)

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Changes I’d make next time would be adding yet another 5 rows to the sleeves (so a total of 75 extra rows, instead of the 70 I did here), and adding an inch and a half to the body as it’s just a smidgeon too short. (And next time, I’ll learn to do the super stretchy bind-off, as it’s a little tight getting it on and off over my shoulders – whoops!)

Anyways, I’m really happy with this jumper. Sure, it’s not perfect, but it’s snuggly and goes well with things in my wardrobe, and it’ll keep me warm.

Yay, knitting! :-D

Cropped jumper in grey and teal | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

My lovely sister snapped some photos up at Truby King Gardens, where we went to get pics of the final two samples of the Sophie cardi. Gotta love that winter sunlight through pine trees….




The Sophie cardigan pattern

So here’s what I’ve been working on lately – the newest pattern for Muse. This one’s called Sophie.

Because I love cardigans, it’s another cardigan pattern. A more casual style than the Jenna – it’s semi fitted, sitting at the high hip, and has raglan sleeves (which gives fun options for colour blocking).

There are three neckline variations to choose from – a classic round neck, a wide flat collar, and a v neck (which was actually the key reason I made this pattern – because the muse who inspired it, the lovely Sophie-Lee, had been asking me to make a v neck cardigan pattern for a while. ;-)

There are other variations to mix and match with as well. Two pocket options (classic patch pockets, or inset pockets with a curved pocked opening), and a choice of button up or zip up front.

Lots of ways to mix and match!

And like the other Muse pattern releases, the first weeks sales (less bank fees) are all getting donated to charity – this time, the St John ambulance and emergency services.

Plus you can get 15% off between now and 27 July – just use the code ‘HELLOSOPHIE’ at checkout.


(We got some photos of my newest knitted jumper while we were taking the photos of the Sophie pattern, so I’ll have a blog post up about that in the next few days. Spoiler alert – it’s warm and snuggly and I likes it. ;-)

Introducing Badge_Sophie

A few new-old patterns

I’ve got a few things to post about, in various stages of works-in-progress. Finished garments that need photographed, photos that need a post written to go with them, and various plans and ideas waiting to even be started.

But at the moment, I’m in the whirlwind of the final stages of the next Muse project. So all the rest is just going to have to wait while I sew up sample garments and things like that. Life kinda happens like that sometimes.

In the meantime though, I thought I’d share these little treasures that made their way into my collection today. Had to go out to Lower Hutt to do some research, and we had 10 minutes to kill before our appointment. There happened to be a Hospice op shop (second hand shop, for the non-Kiwis) right next door, so we headed in there to kill time out of the cold air. Naturally, I made a bee-line right for the patterns. ;-) And here’s what I came home with, for the grand sum of $1 each. (With very little thought – I didn’t have time to look at them properly, it was a bit of a grab-anything-interesting-and-run-to-appointment moment, haha!)




Isn’t this one fabulous?!? I just couldn’t leave it behind. The artwork! So 80’s!! (Plus, it has the potential to be an extremely useful pattern. Underwear in various styles, for both genders and all ages from 2 upwards! Plus singlets!! For both me and th’ little guys. From the same pattern. Crazy but true!





Another vintage lingerie one, also from the 80’s. A princess seamed slip. I even have fabric to use for this one. :-)





Couldn’t resist this one either – how cute is that yoke with the button detail? From 1976.





And here’s where I started grabbing knitting patterns, mainly for my mummy who loves them. (Hi mum! If you’re reading this, let me know which of the knitting patterns you want. ;-)
This one is quite simple – turns out the decorative parts are embroidered on afterwards. For little little people.




This is rather adorable – a book of patterns, and the captions beneath the images in it tell lovely little stories. One example from page 3: “All good castles have cobbled courtyards with green grass growing between the stones. All good toddlers deserve a zipper jacket with fashioned raglan sleeves..” Super cute. And some cute patterns in it, too.




How could I leave this behind? Gotta love that front cover image!
(Turns out there’s a couple of cute patterns in it, too. Including some for kids. And that zip-up cardigan on the front cover holds quite a bit of potential, don’t you think?)




This girls expression does not give the impression she is at all happy with her jumper. In fact, she kinda looks like something from a Stephen King book-turned-movie…. Hmmmm…..

Turns out this one isn’t actually a book of patterns – it’s a book of charts for patterns. Including a dog, a rabbit, and a ski-er (of all things?!?)



All together now: cuuuuutttteee!!!! Bunnies! Trains!! And… dancing sailors?!?! Huh. I guess they kinda fit with the ski-er in the other pattern book….? Still, I want these! (Mum – just for reference, the trains are a size 2 and the rabbits are a size 3. ;-)


IMG_1930Simple and basic baby ones. Just because it was there. Plus, yellow. And kimono style.


So there we have it – a few new-old patterns to add to my collection. Not that I needed them, but hey – you would have done the same, right?! ;-)

Which is your favourite? I have quite a soft spot for grumpy-faced-girl, haha!


Mushrooms and cornflowers amongst the trees

Went for a walk the other weekend, with my lovely friend Nikki. We both had outfits to photograph, it was a beautiful day – seemed like a good excuse to head up to Truby King gardens for fresh air and photos-for-blogs.

Plus, my new dress is green and has mushrooms on it. Dresses like that deserve to be photographed amongst trees, don’t you think?

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

This pattern-and-fabric combination came about as a result of the 0 Degrees of Sewing Separation Challenge that the Wellington Sewing Bloggers Network did. Jen, Mel and I decided to create links between our projects – Jen and I both had this mushrooms cotton, Mel and I both had the Bleuet dress from Deer & Doe. As you can see, I was the link between their two projects. :-)

linked dresses

(You can read all about Mel’s Bleuet dress here, and Jen’s mushrooms Alameda dress here.)

(‘Bleuet’ means ‘cornflower’ in French, in case you’re wondering where cornflowers fit into this story.)

Funny story about this fabric – Jen discovered it at a Fabric-a-brac event a while ago – it was the only length of it there, and we’d never seen it anywhere else. Naturally, she snapped it up superfast.

Then a couple of months after that, our parents went on holiday to the States, and mum bought us both back two lengths of fabric for our birthdays. And one of the two lengths she gave Jen was… the mushrooms cotton! Seriously, what are the chances?!? Anyway, Jen and I switched fabric – I got the mushrooms (because – ‘shooms!) and Jen got a cotton with pirates and skulls on it (which she’s planning on turning into a dress. Because, dresses.)

Anyway, we now have dresses in the same fabric – wheeee!!!

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

This is the second time I’ve made the Deer & Doe Bleuet dress. The first time was in a lightweight stretch denim, and gets worn quite a bit. I did several of the same alterations for this one, and added a couple more as well. This time ’round, I:

  • Lengthened the skirt by a lot (I forget how much – maybe 10cm or possibily a bit more?)
  • Did a small bust adjustment and removed 4cm in total from the bust
  • Added 2cm to the width of the sleeve cuff (last time they were a little bit too tight)
  • Spaced the buttons further apart than the pattern called for (because really, I didn’t want to do that many button holes! Plus my buttons are quite large so suit the wider spacing more)
  • Only interfaced one side of the collar and collar stand
  • Didn’t interface the sleeve cuffs
  • And I stitched a spare button onto the seam allowance of the skirt – it’s a habit I’m trying to get into, in case a button gets lost at some point, as it means I’ll always have a replacement one handy.

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

I wanted to pipe the princess seams of the dress, so that they stand out a bit. Otherwise, they’d get completely lost in this print. After a bit of debate (there were quite a few colours to choose from that could have worked) I went with a soft grey for contrast. (My sister used a dark brown on her dress for contrast, so you can see how they both look against the ‘shrooms.)

I used the same grey for the bow in the back.

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And for the sleeve cuffs.

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And also for the inside of the collar stand, which I slip-stitched down by hand along the bottom edge. I spent a while trying to decide whether to use it for the outside of the collar stand as well, but decided to use the ‘shrooms for the outside, and the grey for the inside for a little pop of contrast.

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

(Haha I chuckle when I use the word ‘pop’ these days. A friend/colleague of mine who is a designer utterly hates that word. It may be creeping into my vocabulary more often than usual as a result. Coz I’m a terrible person like that sometimes.)

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The ‘shrooms are directional, so I had to think a bit when cutting out the collar – which way to put them? I went with having them upright at the back collar. Wanna see something I’m pretty amazed by? Check out that pattern matching on the back collar – some of those mushrooms line up perfectly with the ones on the back bodice, making perfectly complete little ‘shrooms across both sections. Yippie! Totally intentional, of course. (Hah!)

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

The inside is finished simply with overlocked/serged seams. Rather than pressing the princess seams open, I finished both sides of the seam allowance as one and pressed to the side. The hem is done with Hug Snug and a machine blind hem.

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

And, you know. ‘Shrooms dress, in the woods. Gotta pretend to be a ‘shroom, right?

Mushrooms Bleuet | Modern Vintage Cupcakes

Big thanks to Nikki for taking all the garment photos. Thanks, Nikki! :-) (Here’s her outfit that we took photos of at the same time, if you’re interested.)

sitting on log

Here’s a few photos I took up at Truby King, just to round things off. I love it up there – tumbling bricks, massive rhododendrons, tall trees and all.

white flowers


blue flowers




road and wall