So, remember how I mentioned the other day that I was lucky enough to be invited to be a pattern tester for the latest Papercut collection, Constellation? Wanna see what I made?
Yep – it’s the cropped version of the Bellatrix blazer!
Isn’t it a gorgeous cut? I just loves it. I may have done a little happy dance when I saw the line drawings, as it’s exactly the sort of cut I’ve been looking for to wear over 1940′s and 1950′s dresses and skirts. The nipped-in waist, the curved peplum that rises up at the back – perfect for over full skirts, don’t you think?
Since I got my hands on this pattern just after getting back from our holiday, I just had to indulge in using both the pattern and some of my new Japanese fabric at the same time. So I present to you – Buck, a linen/cotton blend from Echino, purchased in Tokyo. (Doesn’t that sound all wonderful and exotic?!?) And look! It has deer on it! And some of them are wearing glasses!! Oh yeah. Deer in glasses. How hipster am I?!?
And yet corporate as well, since this is a tailored blazer. And it’s (mostly) black. Therefore, I shall christen this… the Corporate Hipster jacket. (Yeah, I know. I’m not so good at coming up with the creative names. Oh well.)
Don’t you just love the line of the peplum, curving up from the centre front? And the sleeve cuffs have a subtle curve on them as well (as all good proper tailored expensive jackets do, so I was rather excited to see the the Bellatrix has that detail on it), which curves in the opposite direction to the peplum so the curves balance each other out.
The Bellatrix has two welt pockets. Which, if I’m being totally honest, usually scare the heck out of me. Yep, welt pockets and I are not friends. To the extent where I question whether or not to make up a pattern if I see it has welt pockets….
But for this one, I got brave. And I’m so glad I did! These welt pockets – a thing of beauty in the design and construction! So incredibly fast and easy and tidy to make up. (I may have sent fellow pattern tester Mel a rather excited text when I finished them, exclaiming how easy and tidy they were.) Seriously guys, Best Welt Pockets. Ever.
Since this fabric is kinda full-on, I was a bit worried that the shawl collar would get a bit lost in the pattern of the fabric. So I made some red piping (first time making my own piping! Oh yeah!) in a shade as close as I could get to the glasses the deer are wearing, and edged the collar with it. I also added some to the sleeves.
My arms are super-long (which, incidentally, was what got me into sewing in the first place. Before I could make my own tops, I was wearing 3/4 length sleeves before they really existed.), so even though the Bellatrix sleeves are pretty long anyway, I added another 6 cm to the length, which made them perfect. And because I mucked up and forgot to lengthen them while cutting, and didn’t have enough fabric left to re-cut, I simply made a cuff which had the same curve at the base as the original sleeve did. Then when I joined it on, I used the same red piping between, which also follows the sleeve hem curve. And you know what? I reckon it looks a lot better than if I’d just cut the sleeves the right length in the first place, so I’m calling it a Design Feature.
But wait, do you see a bit of blue and pink appearing in that photo above where I’m pulling the pocket open?
Yep, it’s the pocket lining. I couldn’t resist, and made it in a scrap of the fabric I used for my Cartoon Eccentric dress. (It has elephants on it!)
I think this is one of my favourite parts – I have deer wearing glasses on the centre back. Woot!
Oh yes, speaking of the centre back – having a seam there is fabulous. It provides a bit more shaping for this tailored style, and it also makes it super-easy to adjust if you need to take it in anywhere.
(I didn’t need to take it in. I cut a S, and graded down to an XS at the bust, and it fits perfectly. Admittedly, I could have done with widening the shoulders, as I have rather wide shoulders, but I forgot to. I’ll do that next time.)
Photographer Guy rather mysteriously informed me he knew the perfect place for us to get photos today, and led me up hills until we got there. On top of the rise between Berhampore and Kingston (or whatever the suburb between Berhampore and Kingston is?). Gorgeous views down to Island Bay and Cook Strait. And lots of wind to make hair and skirts do odd things in nearly every photo. This is Wellington, after all.
(Also, sorry about the frown-y photos. There was quite a lot of glare from the sun and I’ve spent too much time staring at computer screens over the last many years for my eyes to be happy with sun-glare! )
I used a bright burgundy for the lining. Because pops of colour are awesome.
Right, onto the pattern review segment!
Seriously guys, if you like this style blazer, you should go and buy this pattern now! It was super easy to make up, and a lot faster than I was expecting. The construction is genius, and the instructions are great – clear and easy to follow. With the shawl collar, and the brilliant extremely simple welt pockets, this is far easier to make than you’d expect.
The fit is tailored, nipped in at the waist and then flaring out with the peplum over the hips. It’s fully lined/faced, and the lining (and facings) are constructed at the same time as the shell, so it all comes together quickly. The sleeves are faced, and the lining is then joined onto those, which gives a super neat and tidy look inside (which I completely forgot to get photos of, sorry!)
Now, you may think I’m raving about this simply because I was lucky enough to be one of the pattern testers. But seriously, this pattern is awesome! I foresee a few more variations in my future, starting with one in burgundy velvet in the longer version for winter…. Mmmm……
Since I’ve raved about how awesome Papercut is on here a bit lately, I’ve decided I want to share the Papercut love. So, I’m going to give away a Papercut pattern! With one little catch – I want this to go to someone who doesn’t own, and has never made, a Papercut pattern before. Someone who hasn’t discovered their awesomeness yet. So if you’ve never owned or made a Papercut pattern, and would like to try one, this giveaway is for you!
Want to be in to win? Comment below saying you’ve never had a Papercut pattern, and tell me which one you’d choose if you won. I’ll draw a winner on Saturday 23 November and buy you the pattern of your choice. This giveaway is now closed – congrats to the lucky winners, Anne W and Symondezyn! (Yep, I couldn’t resist sharing the Papercut love, and decided to draw two winners.